ESD – Electrical Shock Drowning – Part 1

Aug 28, 2018

ESD: What is it?  Part 1 of 2

ESD, also known as Electric Shock Drowning, is a form of drowning caused by an electric current in the water. Where does the electric current originate?  It could be your boat, a malfunctioning charger or lighting system.  More on this in Part 2 of this series.

I have a fiberglass boat hull – that should protect swimmers – Right??

Yes, but you also have a motor with a metal prop in the water.  As a result, this exposes people in the area of the boat to an electrical shock.  The shock is greater as they get closer to the source of the problem.

Why is ESD even more dangerous in freshwater?

In freshwater, electrical current passes through the body paralyzing the body muscles. The strongest, most experienced swimmer in the world will not be able to swim through the current field if this happens.

Is there a warning of ESD?

Yes, there is:

  • The victim will feel tingling, numbness, pain, and paralysis.  That is the first sign of a problem.  The closer they get to the source of the current the stronger the sensations will be – and the more paralyzed they will become.
  • Initially, the victim will be able to shout, but if they unknowingly try to swim towards the electrical source, this ability will cease as they become paralyzed.   

    image of child Still able to communicate

    Still able to communicate

  • The ability to “shout” more than once is critical.  It is the difference between an ESD, an electrocution victim, and a drowning victim.  An electrocution victim may not be able to shout at all. A drowning victim can only shout once or twice before his/her lungs fill with water.
  • Typically, if the victim of ESD is not close to the source, he can shout and tell you what is happening.  A drowning victim cannot yell as their lungs fill with water.
  • Many times the ESD victim looks distressed and not as playful as usual. The muscles will no longer function as normal.
  • The situation may turn into drowning once the victim begins to get water in their lungs.

How about Electrocution

  • A possible victim will be able to scream, usually only once.  The victim’s muscles will cease to function almost immediately.
  • There will be a sudden cessation of all activity
  • The victim usually rolls on their back with their face out of the water and is not responding if wearing flotation.
  •  If not wearing flotation, they will likely roll onto their face.
image of A swimmer in distress

A swimmer in distress

Drowning

  • The victim cannot speak or shout
    • Reflexive “ladder climbing” with their arms even for an experienced swimmer.
    • Looks “playful.”
    • Lasts ~60 seconds with an adult and as little as 20 seconds with a child
    • Slips below surface

 What to do if you suspect an ESD situation

  1. Keep everyone out of the water – and if they are already in the water – DO NOT allow them to swim back to the dock unless the sensation gets stronger while swimming away from the dock or boat.  Remember, the source may be a nearby dock, pump or boat.
  2. Try to get others in the area to swim away from your dock at least 100 yards and then go to the shore. The electrical current is stronger nearest the source and dissipates as you get away from it.
  3. Resist the natural impulse to jump into the water to help. You will become a victim yourself.  Do NOT jump into the water. Use the Reach, Throw, Row, DON’T GO technique below.

    image of The safest way to help someone in distress

    The safest way to help someone in distress

  4. Protect yourself by using an oar, a float or other non-conducting material to pull the swimmer to safety once the electrical source is shut off  See the caption to the right.
  5. Immediately disconnect all power.
  6. Take the victim to the hospital to make sure there are no lingering effects that could be dangerous.

 

In General

image of Performing CPR

Performing CPR if needed

 

  • ESD victims are good candidates for successful Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR).
  • Learn to perform CPR and maintain your training.
  • To retrieve a person in the water, reach, throw, and row, but don’t go.
  • Make sure your children understand the importance of not swimming anywhere there could be electricity. Don’t let them roughhouse on docks. Tell them what to do if they feel a tingling or shock in the water (see below).


I want to test for current myself.  Can I do it?

Yes, with my digital voltmeter, put the negative lead to a ground, drop the positive lead into the water, if the needle moves, even slightly – you may have AC Voltage in the water.  Having an electrician do the testing is the best way

  • Have your boat tested once a year to see if it is leaking electricity, or buy a clamp meter and test it yourself. If you find any problems, have your boat inspected by a qualified electrician.
  • Have a qualified ABYC electrician install an ELCI on your boat (refer them to the ABYC E-11 Standard) or use an ELCI in the shore power cord. As an alternative, install an isolation transformer on the boat.
  • Test the GFCI/ELCI at least once a month or per the manufacturer’s specifications.
  • DO NOT do your own 120-volt AC electrical work on a boat or hire an electrician who is not familiar with ABYC standards to do it. Many of the problems that lead to electrical faults result from the differences between shore and boat electrical systems and standards.
  • NEVER dive from your boat to work on underwater fittings when it is plugged into shore power.
  • DO NOT use common household extension cords for providing shore power to your boat. Use, and encourage other boaters to use shore power cords built to UL standards.  Make sure the connections DO NOT touch the water.

If You Have A Private Dock

  • NEVER swim within 100 yards of ANY dock using electrical power!
  • If you have not electrified your dock or put an AC system on your boat, weigh the risks carefully before doing so.
  • Need electricity on your dock – hire a licensed electrician and make sure the wiring meets the requirements in NFPA 303 and NEC 555. If your dock is already wired, hire an electrician to check that it was done properly. Docks are exposed to the elements, their electrical systems should be inspected at least once a year.
  • If you normally run a power cord from your house or garage to charge your batteries, make sure the outlet has a GFCI and include an ELCI somewhere in the shore power cord.  See part 2 of this series.
  • NEVER swim off your dock without shutting down all shore power to the boat and the dock.
  • Even if you adhere to all of these rules, nearby docks can still present a shock hazard. Educate your neighbors and work together with them to make the waterfront safe.

 What if…

Someone you were with fell out of a boat without their life jacket – Would you know what to do?

  1. REACH: Hold on to the dock or your boat and reach your hand, a boat oar, a fishing pole, or whatever you have nearby, to the person. Many times these people have a fear of drowning and they will pull you under.  Do not touch metal yourself.
  2. THROW: If you can’t reach far enough, toss things that float for the person to grab.
  3. ROW: If you’re in a boat, use the oars to move the boat closer to the person in the water, or call out to a nearby boat for help. Don’t use the boat’s motor close to a person in the water; they could be injured by the propeller
  4. DON’T GO: Don’t go into the water You will become a victim yourself. Call out for help.  Never use a metal ladder or stairs to enter the water when there is an electrical problem

Be careful reaching from the boat or dock – If you are touching metal, you may be a path to ground yourself.

In part two of this series, we will explain more about the GFCI and ELCI.


Where is PWS?

PWS is located in the center of Door County at 7325 St Hwy 57.  It is located 1 mile North of County MM (Hwy 42) and South of Sturgeon Bay.  Look for the intersection of Idlewild Road.  

Want us to address a dock or boat lift topic for you?  Feel free to give us a call.  

Call Jerry at 920-493-4404 or Email Jerry@wisconsinpws.com for more information.

Boat Lift Lift Cable Maintenance-(Revisted)

Mar 13, 2018

Boatlift Cable Maintenance (Revisited)

Boatlift cables, properly maintained, will keep your boatlift functioning the way it is meant to operate. Perform a visual inspection of all cables, especially on the winch, on a regular basis.

The most frequent cause of issues with a boatlift involves a problem with the cables resulting from:

  • Misalignment;
  • Chafing (fraying);
  • Corrosion (rust);
  • Overloading; 
  • Improper Drum Winding; or
  • Boatlift cables without tension 

Properly wound boatlift cable

image of Properly wound boat lift cable

Properly wound Boatlift cable

 

 

Cables must wind tightly and neatly on the winch drum as shown here.

 

 

 

image of Boat Lift Cable improperly wound on the drum  

Boatlift Cable improperly wound on the drum 

 

 

 

Without tension on a cable, the cable unravels on the drum. The unraveling of the cable is like a “backlash” on a fishing reel. Re-winding the cable results in the cable winding against the side of the pulley drum. A loose winding of the cables allows an excess gap between the cable windings on the drum.

 Boatlift Cable Backlash

image of Boatlift Cable backlash

Boatlift cable backlash

When loose cables are re-tightened on the winch drum, they become flat, snagged or tangled. The result is uneven wear and damaged strands.

What if I experience a backlash?

Caution: Whenever a cable becomes jammed, there may have been an overrun (backlash) on the drum. DO NOT use your hands to repair the problem. People have lost fingers when a cable snaps back onto a winch drum.

Caution: If you are attempting to re-align the cables on the drum make sure to wear leather gloves and keep tension on the cable at all times. Keep your hand at least 12” from the winch. Broken cable strands cause painful cuts and punctures in your hands.

When you experience a backlash, lower the boat into the water to prevent the cables from interleaving on the drum.

Never use bare fingers to align the cables. As always, carefully handle the cable to avoid breakage of the wire strands.

Never use pliers to hold tension on the cable as this will damage individual strands on the cable.

Next, unwind the cable while keeping tension on it, until you see the bottom layer on the drum. Re-wrap the cable, under pressure, in even layers. Be sure to close any gaps between the cables on the winch drum.

Finally, it is time to return your boat to the lift to raise it making sure the cable continues to wind smoothly.

If the problem persists, call your lift dealer.

Don’t forget about cable “memory.

“Memory” allows the cable to plays out and rewind onto the drum in a neat pattern. The cable must wind in a set pattern. Loose that “memory” and misalignment occurs which will cause the cable to wind against the side of the winch drum.

This misaligned cable will drop off the “stack” and cause a loud, violent sound as it drops back onto the lower winding.

The cable must remain under tension at all times to prevent the cable from interleafing with the windings in a lower layer.

What is Boatlift Cable Chafe?

image of frayed lift cable

Frayed Boat Lift Cable

 

“Chafe” are those fine broken strands that cut your hands or catch your clothes when you slide your hands along the cable.

Chafe often results from faulty sheave alignment or improper drum winding. Lower a boatlift rack without any weight on it and the result will be a “backlash.” The backlash could result in additional damage to the cables.

Note: A lightweight jet ski rack may not go down as you unwind the cable with no weight on the lift rack. Be aware of this situation and try to keep constant tension on the cable at all times.

 

 

Boatlift Cable Corrosion

Corrosion presents a significant problem for galvanized cables. When the protective layer of galvanizing wears through, corrosion will begin. Corrosion may not always be visible to the naked eye. The first time you become aware of the corrosion may be when the cable breaks.

image of corroded & Frayed cable

Corroded & Frayed Boatlift Cable

Corrosion may also occur inside the cable with little or no external evidence of damage.

Any cable showing external signs of rust or corrosion needs replacement.

Overloading and Boat Positioning

Make sure your boat is positioned correctly on the lift. If it’s not far enough forward, it will put excessive weight on the rear cables and the frame structure. The boat is also prone to washing off the lift in a storm from wave action.

Too far forward may damage the lower motor assembly or break the front cables due to excess weight.

In general, a boat has most of its weight at the stern. As a result, the stern should be about 12″ – 18″ from the lift rack. This position distributes the weight evenly across the lift rack and prevents overloading the cable system.

What Cable Maintenance am I able to perform myself?

A visual inspection of the cables needs to occur on a regular basis. It is helpful to do this when the lift rack is in its lowest position. In this situation, most of the cable is available for inspection. Look for chafing, corrosion or flat cable especially near the winch box.

Don’t forget – do this inspection with leather gloves on to protect your hands. At the beginning of the boating season, be sure to apply a short burst of penetrating oil to the top of the cables wrapped on the winch drum. The penetrating oil will work its way down the cable as needed.

Boatlift Cable Lubricant

image of Boat Lift Cable Lubricant

Boat Lift Cable Lubricant

Do not be afraid to do it more often during the summer months, if you use the boatlift a lot.

Never apply grease to the cables. Grease prevents the moisture from escaping the cable and winch drum. Most quality lifts use Stainless Steel cables for a majority of cables and (1) galvanized cable as the winch cable. Trapping moisture in the cables causes them to corrode faster.

 

 

 

To summarize, take care of your cables, and they will last for years.

Where can you find Pier & Waterfront Solutions?

We are located in the center of the Door County Peninsula at 7325 St. Hwy 42/57. That’s 1 mile North of County MM (Hwy 42) and 3 miles South of Sturgeon Bay. Look for the Idlewild Road intersection.

Our staff is always ready to serve your needs.

Don’t forget – Give us a call If you have a dock or boatlift topic you would like to see addressed on our site,

Call Jerry at 920-493-4404 or Email Jerry@wisconsinpws.com for more information.