Mar 17, 2020
Wire Rope Lubricants
Wire rope lubrication is critical to extending the life of a cable (often referred to as the “lift cable”). How significant is it? Failure to complete this simple maintenance can reduce wire rope life by up to 50%.
Tell me more!
A wire rope consists of wire strands wound around a central core, then again wound around themselves to form a wire rope. The center may consist of steel or even plastics. Here are just some of the MANY different configurations for a wire rope.
Wire Rope Configurations
The use of a small strand size is better suited to bending around small sheaves (pulleys). Taken to an extreme, a wire made of one thick “strand” would not be able to go around a pulley.
Many small strands allow the wire rope to bend easily around the pulleys. In doing so, the strands “rub” against each other, causing friction. Over time, friction rubs any external coatings off the wire rope.
How are the wire rope strands protected against rust?
Uncoated wire rope strands left “uncoated” will rust from exposure to moisture in the air;
The cable strands get a coating of zinc for rust protection (called galvanizing). The steel strands travel through a hot zinc bath to coat the surface with rust protection. The “con” to galvanized cables – the surface does not regenerate when damaged.
What about stainless steel cables?
In simplest terms, when molten high carbon steel mixes with chromium, it forms stainless steel. When in contact with air, the chrome restores the anti-rust properties. The “con” side – it gives up small amounts of strength.
What function does lubricating a wire rope perform?
Wire rope lubricants;
1. Reduce friction in the layers of the wire rope as they move over other layers. It’s true for galvanized & stainless steel cables both; and
2. Lubricants provide corrosion protection and lubrication in the core of the cable. Less rust and friction means longer life for the cables.
Are there different lubricants used?
Boat Lift Cable Lubrication
There are different types of wire rope lubricants – penetrating and coating. Solvents in penetrating oils carry a lubricant into the core of the wire rope. When the solvent evaporates, it leaves behind a lubricating film to protect the strands.
“Coating” lubricants (grease) barely penetrate a cable. The coating seals the outside of the cable from moisture and reduces wear and corrosion. But, it also seals moisture inside the cable, thus promoting the rusting process.
PWS recommends only penetrating lubricants.
Most wire ropes fail on the inside first. It is vital to ensure that the center core receives enough lubrication. Repeated applications over a day are a good idea.
It is best to apply short bursts of spray lubricant on the top cables wound around the drum. Spray across the top of the wires to get the best penetration and protection. The rope strands tend to separate slightly due to bending around the winch drum. This separation allows the lubricant better access to the core of the wire rope.
Four Rules to follow:
- Do not apply a grease lubricant on a boat lift cable;
- Never change the diameter of the lift cable;
- Never substitute a different wire construction; and
- Do not replace stainless steel cables with galvanized cables.
Experience suggests that life cycles may double with lubrication. But remember, there are other factors affecting wire rope life also.
PWS attributes the increase in the life cycle to the use of penetrating oil to displace water and decrease friction. The oil reduces the wear and corrosion occurring inside the rope. Spraying with a penetrating lubricant acts like an oil change for cars. You’d never allow your vehicle to run out of oil. Right?
The savings from lubrication versus replacing a lift cable are considerable.
What else can damage a boat lift cable?
Improper winding and shock loading with heavy loads damage the cables. These actions will speed up wear and corrosion. See this link.
WHAT ABOUT MY BOAT LIFT?
In a previous post, we explained the danger to boat lift cables if the waves hit the bottom of your boat. We also demonstrated what defective wires look.
7 x 7 cable construction
Rust on galvanized cable
Once again, here are the warning signs of defects in your cables.
Broken Strands
If your cable looks like any of these, it’s time to replace them.
Warning – It is possible to break strands inside a cable without any exterior signs of damage. This situation is especially true on stainless steel cables which do not rust. If you see “rust” on a stainless steel cable, it is from the winch drum depositing rust in the winding process.
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Have friends or neighbors you believe would like to see this article? Email them this link – they’ll thank you!
Where is PWS?
You will find us at the intersection of Idlewild Road and Hwy 57 in Door County. The address is 7325 St. Hwy 57, Sturgeon Bay. That’s 3 miles south of Sturgeon Bay, and 1 mile north of the intersection with Cty MM.
Our staff looks forward to serving ALL your waterfront needs.
Contact:
Dave @ (920) 905-2588 or Dave@wisconsinpws.com – erosion control and shoreline work.
Jerry @ (920) 493-4404 or Jerry@wisconsinpws.com – commercial work and new & used Sales.
John @ (920) 493- 4405 or John@wisconsinpws.com – Scheduling & Service work.
Aug 20, 2019
Cable Maintenance
In last weeks article, (https://wisconsinpws.com/boat-lift-cable/) we discussed why your boat lift cable would not last forever.
This week we get into more detail and explain what you can do. We discuss the most critical causes of cable problems and what you can do to protect them.
There are two types of cable material used for boat lifts:
- Galvanized; and
- Stainless steel.
Rust on galvanized cable
Galvanized Steel is made of carbon steel which on its own is not resistant to rust. It is made corrosion resistant by running the cable through a hot bath of molten zinc. As long as the coating is on the wire “fibers,” it will resist the formation of rust.
Stainless Steel is also made of carbon steel. However, when mixed with about 10% chromium, it will form a stainless steel cable. It resists oxidation or corrosion. The chromium in the steel forms a layer of chromium oxide that promotes resistance to corrosion.
When the stainless steel wire is exposed to oxygen, the protective coating will REGENERATE. The anti-corrosion protection of the chromium maintains the resistance of the steel to rust.
Galvanized steel is less expensive than stainless steel due to the differences in the processing of each. Galvanized steel is durable, and each cable is sized to handle the loads created by your boat lift.
No – you can NOT increase the boat lift rating by merely increasing the size of the cable used. If you simply increase the diameter of the cable, you must also increase the size of the drum, or you risk early failure. The larger wire is stiffer and cannot bend around a smaller drum without damage.
Keep this information in mind if a neighbor or visitor wants to put their boat on your lift when it is empty. Know the weight of the new boat.
See https://wisconsinpws.com/boat-lift-calculations-part-4/ for additional information about cable maintenance.
Boat Positioning
Boat stern overhanging too far
Make sure your boat is positioned correctly on the lift. If it’s not far enough forward, it will put excessive weight on the rear cables and the frame structure. On the other hand, if the boat is too far forward, you may damage the lower motor assembly or break the front cables due to excess weight.
In general, a boat has most of its weight at the stern where the motor is. As a result, to maintain proper balance on your lift, the boat stern should be about 6″ to12″ from the lift rack. See the above article for more information.
When properly balanced, the weight is evenly distributed across the lift rack. A balanced boat prevents overloading one end of the lift.
Note – unusually long boats, may be an exception to the 6-12″ rule. You must be especially careful to find the proper balance. Proper balance will minimize potential damage to the cables.
To summarize, take care of your cables, and they will last for years.
What Cable Maintenance Can I do by myself?
1. Make a visual inspection of the cables regularly. It is helpful to do this when the lift rack is in its lowest position to expose more cable. Look for chafing, corrosion or a flat cable especially near the winch box.
Don’t forget – do this inspection with leather gloves on to protect your hands.
Boat Lift Cable Lubricant
2. At the beginning of the boating season, be sure to apply a burst of penetrating oil to the top of the cables around the winch drum. The penetrating oil will work its way down the wires as needed. Raise the rack halfway up and carefully apply another burst of penetrating oil to the winch drum. NEVER use grease on the cables. It traps moisture inside the strands. Do not be afraid to do it more often during the summer months, if you use the boatlift frequently.
Most quality lifts use Stainless Steel cables for a majority of cables and (1) galvanized cable as the main winch cable.
3. Watch the winch drum to ensure that the cable is wrapping smoothly on the drum.
Stainless steel lift cables also benefit from penetrating oil. We recommend this procedure in Spring, halfway through the boating season and again in Fall after removal.
To summarize, take care of your cables, and they may last for years. Remember, the cables and the winch do all the “work” on your lift. They do the lifting by raising the rack assembly with the weight of the watercraft on it. That’s a lot of weight so the cables must be well maintained.
In Conclusion
In Spring and Fall (and at least once during the summer months), put a short blast or two of PENETRATING oil on the cables wrapped around the winch drum from the top of the winch. Do not soak the wire until it drips when in the water. You don’t want to contaminate the water. Use only penetrating oil as the lubricant.
NEVER use grease (it traps the moisture inside the cable accelerating its deterioration).
Cable maintenance begins with inspecting cables for frays and rust – Caution – wear leather gloves to prevent injury to your hands. Check near the top of the winch cable as this is the most common area for frays. Replace as needed, if corrosion is present.
Check the alignment of all cables on the pulleys. Simply follow the cables down until they wrap around a pulley. Are they On a pulley or is the cable off to one side? Call PWS if they are.
With your watercraft on the rack – check for any slack in the cables. All cables should be equal in tension. Contact PWS for adjustment, if needed.
Look for cable corrosion near the winch with the rack fully down (but without slack in the lifting cables.
Remember, the cables and the winch do all the “work” on your lift. They do the lifting by raising the rack assembly with the weight of the watercraft on it. That’s a lot of weight so the cables must be well maintained.
Remember
Pier & Waterfront Solutions (PWS) specializes in all ShoreMaster docks, lifts, and accessories.
We are located in the center of Door County at 7325 St Hwy 57, just south of Sturgeon Bay at the intersection with Idlewild Road. Our staff looks forward to serving all of your waterfront needs.
Call Jerry at 920-493-4404 or Email Jerry@wisconsinpws.com for more information.
Aug 13, 2019
NOTHING LASTS FOREVER – EVEN A LIFT CABLE
Typical Lift cable
That’s true! Your cables will eventually need replacement. When? That depends on you. If you’ve been around boat lifts for any length of time you have seen problems with boat lifts. Typical problems include corrosion, chafe, broken strands or kinks on the cables..
Let’s start by looking at the typical construction of a lift cable.
7 x 7 cable construction
The most common types are the 7 x 7 and 7 x 19 construction. As you can see they are not simply a wire hanging down that lifts your boat up. They are more complex than that.
The individual strands are wrapped together as shown Then they are wrapped again around a core.
HOW DO CABLES GET DAMAGED?
There are two types of wear:
External abrasion
Typical Cable Stacking
This occurs when the cable bends around the winch drum and lift pulleys. On the winch drum, they rub against the adjoining wire or the drum sides. This rubbing causes wear on the external strands which will eventually wear through the individual stands.
If the cable doesn’t wrap properly, it starts to stack on the side of the winch drum. When the cable eventually slips off the “stack”, even though it is only dropping 1/4″ to 1/2″, the resulting noise shocks anyone nearby. It was under hundreds of pounds of pressure from the boat. This situation is usually caused by misalignment of the winch drum or a poorly threaded situation.
New ShoreMaster winches are attached with a complete housing around the upright post which prevents this from happening due to winch misalignment. More on this later in this discussion.
Internal abrasion
Internal abrasion occurs whenever strands work against each other under load. Each time a boat is raised or lowered over a winch drum, there is internal wear. Each strand of wire in the winding is moving at a slightly different speed. Abrasion of the strands is the result. When you lose too many strands, you lose a lot of strength. This condition cannot be eliminated but it can be controlled by using the proper size winch drum and pulleys.
A point often overlooked – internal abrasion and the resulting corrosion or rust in a galvanized cable, can be hidden and may not show visible damage. A cable like this may sometimes fail without prior warning.
ASSUMING IT IS WELL CARED FOR, HOW LONG SHOULD IT LAST?
Experts say that to be safe, replace a galvanized cable every two years. All things being equal, stainless wires will last longer-up to twice as long. But don’t rush out and try to change all your cables to stainless. Galvanized cable has its place on your lift. For one, they are stronger than stainless steel and can bend easier around the pulley and winch drum.
An improperly positioned boat may send your boat into the water. See https://wisconsinpws.com/boat-lift-safety-updated/ for more information.
When in doubt, replace the cable. Trying to squeeze another year out of the cable isn’t worth the risk of dropping your boat or personal injury.
COMMON PROBLEMS WITH BOAT LIFT CABLES
Frayed Boat Lift Cable
Chafe or fraying – are those fine broken strands that poke or cut your hands when you slide your hands along the cable. If you catch your clothes when they brush against a cable you have “chafe” or fraying.
Chafe may be the result of faulty sheave alignment or improper drum winding.
Lowering a lift rack without any weight on it, especially on a small lift like a PWC lift, may also result in a “backlash.” This is discussed later.
Note: Be aware that most winches require at least 50 lbs of weight to work correctly.
BROKEN STRANDS
Broken Strands
Broken strands are very dangerous. Boat lifts with this type of damage should be replaced immediately.
CORROSION
Corroded & Frayed Boat lift Cable
Corrosion presents a significant problem for galvanized cables. When the protective layer of galvanizing wears through as discussed above, corrosion will begin. Corrosion may not always be visible to the naked eye. The first time you become aware of the corrosion could be when the cable breaks.
Corrosion may also occur “inside” the cable with little or no external evidence of the damage as discussed above. Any cable showing external signs of rust or corrosion needs replacement.
BACKLASH
Boat lift cable backlash
When a lift is lowered to the bottom and the winch continues to move the result will be a Backlash. If there is insufficient tension on the cables they will “spring” in every direction on the winch drum. When you retighten the cable, the loose cables become snarled and can wrap up like a backlash in a fishing reel.
WHAT IF I EXPERIENCE A BACKLASH?
Whenever a cable experiences a backlash DO NOT use your bare hands to repair the problem (chafe). You won’t soon forget this if it happens to you. People have also lost fingers when a cable snaps back onto a winch drum. Make sure you wear leather gloves and keep tension on the cable at all times. Keep your hand at least 12″ from the winch to prevent entanglement.
When you experience a backlash, lower the boat into the water to prevent the cables from interleaving further on the drum.
Never use bare fingers or pliers to align the cables. As always, carefully handle it to avoid breakage of the wire strands.
Next, unwind the winch while keeping tension on it. Do this until you see the bottom layer on the drum. Re-wrap the cable onto the winch drum while maintaining tension. Rewind it in even layers. Be sure to close any gaps between the cable on the winch drum.
Finally, it is time to return your boat to the lift to raise it, making sure the cable continues to wind smoothly. If the problem persists, call your lift dealer (that’s PWS)
DID YOU REMEMBER THE WIRE “MEMORY”?
Properly wound cable
“Memory” allows the cable to play out and rewind onto the drum in a neat pattern. The wire must wind in a set pattern. Loose that “memory” and misalignment occurs which will cause the cable to turn against the side of the winch drum.
Maintain tension at all times to prevent the cable from interleafing with the windings in a lower layer. Fill in each layer completely, leaving no gaps.
WHAT’S COMING UP NEXT WEEK?
Next week we give you more information about boat lift cables and what you can do to lengthen their life.
Remember
Pier & Waterfront Solutions (PWS) specializes in all ShoreMaster docks, lifts, and accessories.
We are located in the center of Door County at 7325 St Hwy 57, just south of Sturgeon Bay at the intersection with Idlewild Road. Our staff looks forward to serving all of your waterfront needs.
Call Jerry at 920-493-4404 or Email Jerry@wisconsinpws.com for more information.
Apr 2, 2019
Boat Lift Accessories
Boat lift accessories relieve a lot of stress and work. You don’t have to worry about the hull and motor getting fouled after sitting in the water for too long. Think of the time and work you’ll save by not having to put your boat back on the trailer every time you use it. It also relieves your stress during a storm.
Life is just better when you’ve got a boat lift with the right accessories to protect your boat. Accessories for your boat lift include things like solar systems and wireless remote controlled lift motors or a simple canopy.
Here’s a summary of the most popular boat lift accessories that we recommend for your lift:
Guide-Ons
Full-Length Guides
Guide-ons make it easier to get the boat on the lift and keep both the boat and lift from sustaining damage in the process.
They come in two basic configurations including:
Vertical PVC guide-ons which consist simply of vertical PVC or foam posts, often covered by fabric. As the name implies they guide boats to help you get your boat onto the lift correctly.
Much more popular are the full-length guide-on systems. Full-Length guide-ons consist of a pair of wood or aluminum guides that mount near the sides of the boat rack. They can adjust both horizontally and vertically for a perfect fit to your boat. They are a physical aid for centering and loading your boat onto the lift.
The guide-ons come carpeted or with a vinyl covering. Vinyl covered guides greatly reduce the maintenance of the guides and are preferred by most boaters.
Bow Guide/Stops
ShoreMaster Bow Guide Schematic
Bow Guide/Stops are a bow-shaped beam at the front of the lift. They keep you from overrunning the boat lift. They ensure proper positioning without effort. It prevents the boat from being pushed too far into the lift by the waves. A properly positioned boat helps reduce the strain on the cables by applying equal weight to all the cables. This is crucial to the life of the cables.
Pontoon bunks
Most Pontoon bunks come in two styles:
Pontoon deck support
Pontoon Tube Supports
As the names imply the tube supports sit under the tubes and the deck support is under the deck. Opinions differ on which one is better to use. It all comes down to personal choice.
Solar Panel Systems
24 V Solar Panel arrangement
Your boat lift may include various systems that run off of electricity. This includes the boat, a lift motor or lighting. We can set up a solar charging system to charge your boat battery as well
as an electric lift motor.
A solar system consists of a solar panel which can attach to the boat lift or battery box. The kit will charge either a battery in a battery tray, or directly charge the battery in your PWC personal watercraft or boat lift. We size the panels and batteries to match your needs. Install a solar charging system, and you can keep your 12v or 24V batteries or personal watercraft motor charged all summer with no hassle.
Floodlights
Ever tried to get started early in the morning or return late at night? Maybe it’s an early morning trip or coming in late at night. It’s always best to be able to see what you are doing.
Canopy lights
Maybe it’s making sure everything is battened down during a storm. Sometimes, you have to raise or lower your boat while it’s dark. Finally, it could simply be lights to allow you to see your lift from afar. Having lights can be a lifesaver.
Install an LED light system to provide lighting for your dock and boat lift. Hint: Place a red and green light at the end of your dock, so you know what side you are approaching in the dark. Do you need a light to safely board or exit your boat? These benefits can all be integrated into an electrical system of your boat lift. You can get the power from your solar panel system. Use a wireless remote to turn the lights on and off.
Supports for a boat
Cradles and bunks for your lift support your boat on the lift safely. There a whole range of different types of hull supports you can install on your boat lift to get that perfect fit.
ShoreMaster Cradles
These come in several categories:
Cradles are pivoting pads that stabilize and support the hull of your boat. Today, these are seldom used. People prefer the use of bunks which distribute the weight over a large area.
Full-length Bunks and Guide – on
Full-length bunks provide maximum support and stability. These aluminum extrusions will contour to your watercraft and are
covered in vinyl which resists the adhesion of sand and debris. They can be offset toward your pier for easier access as well.
be careful when offset
Lift Boss Motor
Lift Boss Motor
A boat lift motor is a popular accessory when you get tired of trying to raise your boat by hand. You’ll probably get one because your better half or the kids have difficulty turning the large wheel. No one has ever complained about having a motor on the lift. They only wish that they had done it earlier.
See this link for more information.
Wireless Remote
Remote Control
Once you’ve started to accumulate accessories for your pier and boat lift, you may want a more convenient way to control it all. That’s where a wireless remote comes in.
If you have an electric winch operated boat lift, you can get a wireless remote which lets you raise or lower your boat from up to 300 feet away. The same remote can additionally operate
your LED floodlight system. This means you can turn on the lights and lower your boat into the water before even setting foot on the dock.
If that’s not convenient enough, you can even put the key fob remote on your keychain, so it’s always on hand. If you can open your garage and unlock and start your car with a key fob, why not make it just as easy for your boat?
See more lift accessories at this link: Shoremaster
Call PWS for Boat Lift Accessories and Maintenance
Depending on what sort of accessories you’re interested in, such as the bunks and cradles, it’s probably a good idea to get professional help choosing and installing these accessories. PWS is a team of professionals, and we’re well-equipped to handle any maintenance you need for your boat lift in the Door County area.
Give us a call today and let’s discuss how we can make your boat lift and pier as convenient to use as possible!
PWS is located at 7325 St. Hwy 57. That’s 1 mile North of County MM (Hwy 42) and 3 miles South of Sturgeon Bay at the Idlewild Road intersection. Our staff is here year-round to assist you.
Feb 19, 2019
WHAT SIZE BOATLIFT DO I NEED?
What size boatlift do you need? Purchasing a new boatlift does not have to be a confusing time. Yet, you have a lot to consider before making your final decision. By spending a little time here, you will be better educated and able to ask the right questions. Ultimately it will ensure you make a better choice.
In addition to getting the numbers, here are some things to consider:
How big is the body of water you will be on?
For instance, will you be on the bay of Green Bay, Lake Winnebago or are you on an inland lake or river? In general, the larger the body of water, the larger the waves will be and the higher your boat must be.
Are there significant fluctuations in water depth during the boating season?
Green Bay and Lake Winnebago present unique situations for boaters because these two bodies of water have substantial variations in water depth and wave action every year. Why are these fluctuations so significant?
When these two situations combine, you want a lift that puts your boat well above the water, so your investment is safe.
How about the boatlift frame construction?
You need a durable frame construction to withstand the boat weight and pressures from the waveWelded side frames prevent any lateral movement in the lift. With age, every time you put your boat on them, bolted side frames move laterally. This will eventually result in enlarged bolt holes, rusted bolts, and loose nuts from the movement of the side frames.
Welded Areas on Side Frames
Compare to other manufacturers
Most brands use bolts everywhere, so shipping is less expensive. The more bolts used in the side frames, the weaker the entire structure is. By comparison, the ShoreMaster boatlift with welded side frames prevents lateral movement.
Only ShoreMaster boatlifts have a welded “V” frame to make access to your boat easier. You do not have to crawl over a horizontal bar to get into your boat.
What is the gauge (material thickness) of the Frame?
The best-constructed boatlifts have aluminum, welded frames using heavy gauge, square or rectangular aluminum. Round vertical legs are not as strong as a square or rectangular leg. As a result, with structurally welded frames and the heaviest gauge tubing, you have the most durable frames possible. We urge you to compare ShoreMaster lifts with any other brand.
What material is used for the pulley?
No matter what size boatlift you purchase pulley material is a critical maintenance issue for any boatlift. Most manufacturers use plastic pulleys because they are cheaper to make. On the other hand, they get brittle over time. The sides of the groove tend to crack and break off allowing the cable to fall out of the pulley. If the cable is already weakened due to rust or broken strands, the cable may break.
Plastic Pulleys
However, if the cable does not break, two things can happen:
- The cable may jam between the pulley and the tube side. As a result, it will become very difficult to raise or even lower the boat. or
- The cable may drag across the pulley shaft. This will put an excessive drag on the cable and eventually wear a groove in the shaft until it breaks the shaft off.
Brass Pulleys
ShoreMaster uses brass pulleys with stainless steel bushings for unsurpassed strength. They simply NEVER wear out or break. Even the smaller jet ski lifts use brass pulleys to minimize maintenance issues.
What is the most popular boatlift used on the Door County Peninsula?
Vertical Boat Lift
The VERTICAL boat lift is the most popular boat lift in Door Couty. It far surpasses the cantilever boatlifts used in the past.
Vertical boatlifts require less water – 6″ vs 12″. They also raise your boat higher. Normal cantilever boatlifts raise your boat 36″ – 40″ high versus a vertical lift which goes to 66″ high. Vertical lifts have capacities up to 7,000 lb.
What is the warranty of the boatlift frame?
Some boatlifts come with a 1 or 2-year factory structural warranty. Some have a five year, and a few have a 10-year warranty. ShoreMaster boatlifts carry a full 15-year structural warranty.
Don’t you deserve the best protection and strength of a ShoreMaster Boatlift?
In Part 4 of this series, the discussion will be the actual calculations to select the correct size boatlift.
Publication Dates
Part 1 of 4 – Cantilever, PWC, ShorePorts, Tracks Feb 5, 2019
2 of 4 – Hydraulic, Elevator Lifts, Floating lifts Feb 12, 2019
3 of 4 – Vertical lifts Feb 19, 2019
4 of 4 – Calculations Feb 26. 2019
Do you have a friend that may be interested in this information? Please share a link to this article with them.
PWS is located at 7325 St. Hwy 42/57, that’s 1 mile North of County MM (Hwy 42) and 3 miles South of Sturgeon Bay at the Idlewild Road intersection
Our staff is here year-round to assist you.
