Very nice work, and it was a pleasure doing business with you- Barbara M. Door County WI
Thanks again, Jerry Very nice work, and it was a pleasure doing business with you.
Barbara M. Door County • Wisconsin
Thank you for your efficient and reliable service – Bev R., WI
Thank you for your efficient and reliable service.
Bev R. – Wisconsin
Boat Lift Lift Cable Maintenance-(Revisted)
Boatlift Cable Maintenance (Revisited)
Boatlift cables, properly maintained, will keep your boatlift functioning the way it is meant to operate. Perform a visual inspection of all cables, especially on the winch, on a regular basis.
The most frequent cause of issues with a boatlift involves a problem with the cables resulting from:
- Misalignment;
- Chafing (fraying);
- Corrosion (rust);
- Overloading;
- Improper Drum Winding; or
- Boatlift cables without tension
Properly wound boatlift cable
Properly wound Boatlift cable
Cables must wind tightly and neatly on the winch drum as shown here.
Boatlift Cable improperly wound on the drum
Without tension on a cable, the cable unravels on the drum. The unraveling of the cable is like a “backlash” on a fishing reel. Re-winding the cable results in the cable winding against the side of the pulley drum. A loose winding of the cables allows an excess gap between the cable windings on the drum.
Boatlift Cable Backlash
Boatlift cable backlash
When loose cables are re-tightened on the winch drum, they become flat, snagged or tangled. The result is uneven wear and damaged strands.
What if I experience a backlash?
Caution: Whenever a cable becomes jammed, there may have been an overrun (backlash) on the drum. DO NOT use your hands to repair the problem. People have lost fingers when a cable snaps back onto a winch drum.
Caution: If you are attempting to re-align the cables on the drum make sure to wear leather gloves and keep tension on the cable at all times. Keep your hand at least 12” from the winch. Broken cable strands cause painful cuts and punctures in your hands.
When you experience a backlash, lower the boat into the water to prevent the cables from interleaving on the drum.
Never use bare fingers to align the cables. As always, carefully handle the cable to avoid breakage of the wire strands.
Never use pliers to hold tension on the cable as this will damage individual strands on the cable.
Next, unwind the cable while keeping tension on it, until you see the bottom layer on the drum. Re-wrap the cable, under pressure, in even layers. Be sure to close any gaps between the cables on the winch drum.
Finally, it is time to return your boat to the lift to raise it making sure the cable continues to wind smoothly.
If the problem persists, call your lift dealer.
Don’t forget about cable “memory.
“Memory” allows the cable to plays out and rewind onto the drum in a neat pattern. The cable must wind in a set pattern. Loose that “memory” and misalignment occurs which will cause the cable to wind against the side of the winch drum.
This misaligned cable will drop off the “stack” and cause a loud, violent sound as it drops back onto the lower winding.
The cable must remain under tension at all times to prevent the cable from interleafing with the windings in a lower layer.
What is Boatlift Cable Chafe?
Frayed Boat Lift Cable
“Chafe” are those fine broken strands that cut your hands or catch your clothes when you slide your hands along the cable.
Chafe often results from faulty sheave alignment or improper drum winding. Lower a boatlift rack without any weight on it and the result will be a “backlash.” The backlash could result in additional damage to the cables.
Note: A lightweight jet ski rack may not go down as you unwind the cable with no weight on the lift rack. Be aware of this situation and try to keep constant tension on the cable at all times.
Boatlift Cable Corrosion
Corrosion presents a significant problem for galvanized cables. When the protective layer of galvanizing wears through, corrosion will begin. Corrosion may not always be visible to the naked eye. The first time you become aware of the corrosion may be when the cable breaks.
Corroded & Frayed Boatlift Cable
Corrosion may also occur inside the cable with little or no external evidence of damage.
Any cable showing external signs of rust or corrosion needs replacement.
Overloading and Boat Positioning
Make sure your boat is positioned correctly on the lift. If it’s not far enough forward, it will put excessive weight on the rear cables and the frame structure. The boat is also prone to washing off the lift in a storm from wave action.
Too far forward may damage the lower motor assembly or break the front cables due to excess weight.
In general, a boat has most of its weight at the stern. As a result, the stern should be about 12″ – 18″ from the lift rack. This position distributes the weight evenly across the lift rack and prevents overloading the cable system.
What Cable Maintenance am I able to perform myself?
A visual inspection of the cables needs to occur on a regular basis. It is helpful to do this when the lift rack is in its lowest position. In this situation, most of the cable is available for inspection. Look for chafing, corrosion or flat cable especially near the winch box.
Don’t forget – do this inspection with leather gloves on to protect your hands. At the beginning of the boating season, be sure to apply a short burst of penetrating oil to the top of the cables wrapped on the winch drum. The penetrating oil will work its way down the cable as needed.
Boatlift Cable Lubricant
Boat Lift Cable Lubricant
Do not be afraid to do it more often during the summer months, if you use the boatlift a lot.
Never apply grease to the cables. Grease prevents the moisture from escaping the cable and winch drum. Most quality lifts use Stainless Steel cables for a majority of cables and (1) galvanized cable as the winch cable. Trapping moisture in the cables causes them to corrode faster.
To summarize, take care of your cables, and they will last for years.
Where can you find Pier & Waterfront Solutions?
We are located in the center of the Door County Peninsula at 7325 St. Hwy 42/57. That’s 1 mile North of County MM (Hwy 42) and 3 miles South of Sturgeon Bay. Look for the Idlewild Road intersection.
Our staff is always ready to serve your needs.
Don’t forget – Give us a call If you have a dock or boatlift topic you would like to see addressed on our site,
Call Jerry at 920-493-4404 or Email Jerry@wisconsinpws.com for more information.
Boat Lift Cables – How to maintain your cables – Door County, WI
Boat Lift Cables Require Maintenance
Boat Lift cables, along with the winch on your lift, are the (2) most important components of a boat lift. As a result, they require periodic attention. Remember, these (2) pieces do all the “work” on your lift. They do the lifting by raising the rack assembly with the weight of the watercraft on it. Lift cables allow your boat, pontoon or PWC to be raised and lowered when you need them.
The lift cables are made of either stainless or galvanized steel.
Both types of steel offer the benefit of corrosion resistance and strength. But there are some noteworthy differences that you need to pay attention to if you are deciding on a new or used lift or just plain replacing the cables.
You need to look at the available options and be able to do simple maintenance on either type of cable. With your owner’s manual, the correct part number, weight capacity, and type of cable should be listed. If it is not listed, or you do not have an owner’s manual, you can contact PWS to get assistance in determining what cables your lift requires regardless of the brand. PWS can get the correct cables so the cables can be replaced correctly.
Types of Steel used as Boat Lift Cables
Galvanized Steel: Galvanized steel is a carbon steel made corrosion resistant by the application of a thin layer of zinc oxide. This is accomplished through a “hot dip” in a zinc bath. The process applies a thin layer or coating of zinc to the steel to increase the metal’s resistance to corrosion.
Galvanized steel is less expensive than stainless steel due to the differences in the processing of each. Galvanized steel is strong and each cable is made to handle the loads created by your boat lift. The downside to galvanized steel is the fact that it has a higher electron-potential than stainless steel, making its’ corrosion resistance less effective because it does NOT regenerate when damaged.
Stainless Steel: Stainless steel is carbon steel which is mixed with about 10% chromium to resist oxidation or corrosion. The chromium in the steel forms a thin layer of chromium oxide that promotes resistance to corrosion. When exposes to oxygen the protective coating WILL regenerate. The anti-corrosion of the chromium simply oxygen to maintain this property of resistance.
Getting technical now
Galvanized steel boat lift cables, although corrosion resistant, are more prone to wear. The zinc layer can be scratched or cracked through expansion and contraction. This can lead to spot rusting and a decreased life of the steel cable. The scratching occurs when a cable rubs against itself as it winds around the winch drum. Each layer is going at a slightly different speed than the layer below it – thus scratching the zinc coating on the cable.
Even internally the strands in the cable are rotating at a different speed and the zinc will be damaged. This can be frequently seen on the upper areas of a galvanized cable where it enters the winch. It also frequently occurs on the bottom layer of a cable where it is wrapped around the drum on the winch.
Stainless steel boat lift cables, on the other hand, are blended with chromium oxide during manufacturing. This makes its corrosion resistance regenerative in fresh water.
Rusted Boat Lift Cables
You will see lift cable corrosion most commonly in the form of rust.
Galvanized steel cables will corrode over larger areas of its surface while stainless steel cables seldom rust. The addition of chromium to the steel during the production process creates a product that is regenerative and uniform in resistance throughout.
Whereas galvanized steel, with its zinc coating, does not regenerate and when damaged exposes the steel beneath to the elements. The rusted areas are more prone to fraying and breakage too.
In Conclusion … Follow these Maintenance Suggestions for your Boat Lift:
- In spring and fall (and at least once during the summer months), put a short blast or two of PENETRATING OIL on the cables wrapped around the winch drum from the top of the winch. Do not soak the cable, you’ll contaminate the water below. DO NOT use any oil except penetrating oil. NEVER USE GREASE (it traps the moisture inside the cable accelerating it’s deterioration).
- Inspect cables for frays and rust – Caution – wear leather gloves to prevent injury to your hands. Check near the top of the winch cable as this is the most common area for frays. Replace as needed, if corrosion is present.
- Check all cables to make sure they’re aligned properly on the pulleys
- With your watercraft on the rack – check for any slack in the cables. All cables should be equal in tension. Contact PWS for adjustment, if needed.
- Look for cable corrosion near the winch with the rack fully down (but without slack in the lifting cables.)
- If the canopy cover is on, are all the springs or bungee cords secured? Broken hardware should be immediately replaced.
- Check bunks and guides to make sure the hardware is secure.
- If carpeted, replace torn bunk and guide fabrics to protect your boat hull. Consider replacing carpet with vinyl bunks.
- Exterior wheel driven winch? Check the bungee cord to see if it needs replacement. Cracked cords can break at any time so be sure to use the correct cord. Contact PWS for replacements.
- Don’t ignore your dock – check the bolts. Are they secure ?
It is our hope that this article will make your decision easier and lend more confidence to your selection. Your boat lift is an investment and as such we want to make certain that we help you make a wise decision.
Remember
Pier & Waterfront Solutions (PWS) specializes in all ShoreMaster docks, lifts and accessories.
Located in the center of Door County at 7325 St Hwy 57, just south of Sturgeon Bay at the intersection of Idlewild Road. Our staff looks forward to serving all of your waterfront needs.
Found this article helpful? Go to “NEWS” on any page of our website for a complete list of articles meant to keep you informed on the latest product information and maintenance issues. Check out our “older entries” also.
The wide variety of articles on dock and boat lifts issues will answer many of your questions. PWS believes that an informed consumer makes better decisions.
Call Jerry at 920-493-4404 or Email Jerry@wisconsinpws.com for more information.
When Should a Boat Lift Cable Be Replaced?
When Should A Boat Lift Cable Be Replaced?
The proper time to replace a boat lift cable depends on a variety of circumstances:
Corroded & Frayed Cable
- How well is it maintained?
- How often is it lubricated?
- What is used to lubricate the cables?
- Is the cable winding properly?
- Was the lift sized properly?
- Is there any visual damage to the cable?
- Are there frayed wires on the cable?
- Is it a galvanized cable or stainless steel?
- Is there corrosion on the cable?
What is the proper lift cable maintenance?
Lift cable replacement depends on a visual inspection of the lift cables to help determine when to replace them. It’s best to inspect it while it is on dry land in order to check all of the key points. Ideally, the lifting platform (or rack) should be in the lowered position. Of course, make sure the lift cable is not allowed to go slack.
Frayed Lift Cable
Examine the vertical length of the cable for frayed wires especially near the winch. CAUTION – Always wear leather gloves when sliding your hands on the cable. To put it differently, a frayed wire can cause extensive, painful damage to unprotected hands.
The cable is made up of multiple strands of wire and multiple wraps are used to form the overall cable. Excessive fraying or corrosion near the winch is a top signal of damage.
Nothing lasts forever – even boat lift cables
There are two types of cable wear:
- Internal cable abrasion- This occurs whenever strands work against each other under load.
- External abrasion – This also occurs when the cable bends around the winch drum and rubs against the adjoining cable or drum.
How long a lift cable lasts depends on:
- How often it’s used;
- What type of cable it is; and
- The care it receives.
Every time a boat is raised or lowered over a winch drum there is internal wear on the cable. Each strand of wire in the winding is moving at a slightly different speed. Abrasion of the cable strands is the result. When you loose too many strands you lose a lot of strength.
What should be done?
Steel lift cables require a squirt or two of penetrating oil occasionally to reduce the internal friction on the strands and individual wires in the cable. This is particularly important on galvanized cables. Lubrication helps to preserve the galvanized coating and minimizes abrasion between strands. Grease should NEVER be used, as it traps moisture inside the strands. Do not saturate the cable and only use penetrating oil for best results.
Stainless steel lift cable will also benefit from a few squirts of penetrating oil. This should be done in Spring and again in Fall.
Strong indicators that a boat lift cable needs to be replaced:
- Excessive broken strands:
- Kinks:
- Deformities and
- Areas of heavy corrosion.
Corrosion
Rusted Lift Cable
Galvanized cables that break tend to show signs of corrosion or rust. Usually this is located near the winch when the rack is in the lowered position. It also can be at the bottom of the cable where it is secured to the frame. Note: do not allow the main cable to go “slack” when lowering the rack.
A slight discoloration indicates that the protective galvanizing coating has been worn away. Concentrations of heavy rust indicate that the steel cable itself has lost considerable strength and should be replaced immediately.
Assuming the cable is well cared for, how long should it last?
Experts say that, to be safe, galvanized cable should be replaced every two years. All things being equal, stainless cable will last longer, up to twice as long.
A point often overlooked – internal abrasion or rust can be hidden and may not show visible damage on the cable. A boat lift cable like this may sometimes fail without prior warning. An improperly positioned boat, shocks from wave action (when bouncing on the lift rack or jamming the rack against the frame may send your boat into the water.
When in doubt, replace the cable; trying to squeeze another year out of a $75 cable isn’t worth the risk of dropping your boat or personal injury.
Remember
Pier & Waterfront Solutions (PWS) specializes in all ShoreMaster docks, lifts and accessories.
Located in the center of Door County at 7325 St Hwy 57, just south of Sturgeon Bay at the intersection of Idlewild Road. Our staff looks forward to serving all of your waterfront needs.
Found this article helpful? Go to “NEWS” on any page of our website for a complete list of articles meant to keep you informed on the latest product information and maintenance issues. Check out our “older entries” also.
The wide variety of articles on dock and boat lifts issues will answer many of your questions. PWS believes that an informed consumer makes better decisions.
Call Jerry at 920-493-4404 or Email Jerry@wisconsinpws.com for more information.
Coming Soon – “The PWS Store” on our website
