Boat Lift cables, along with the winch on your lift, are the (2) most important components of a boat lift. As a result, they require periodic attention. Remember, these (2) pieces do all the “work” on your lift. They do the lifting by raising the rack assembly with the weight of the watercraft on it. Lift cables allow your boat, pontoon or PWC to be raised and lowered when you need them.
The lift cables are made of either stainless or galvanized steel.
Both types of steel offer the benefit of corrosion resistance and strength. But there are some noteworthy differences that you need to pay attention to if you are deciding on a new or used lift or just plain replacing the cables.
You need to look at the available options and be able to do simple maintenance on either type of cable. With your owner’s manual, the correct part number, weight capacity, and type of cable should be listed. If it is not listed, or you do not have an owner’s manual, you can contact PWS to get assistance in determining what cables your lift requires regardless of the brand. PWS can get the correct cables so the cables can be replaced correctly.
Types of Steel used as Boat Lift Cables
Galvanized Steel: Galvanized steel is a carbon steel made corrosion resistant by the application of a thin layer of zinc oxide. This is accomplished through a “hot dip” in a zinc bath. The process applies a thin layer or coating of zinc to the steel to increase the metal’s resistance to corrosion.
Galvanized steel is less expensive than stainless steel due to the differences in the processing of each. Galvanized steel is strong and each cable is made to handle the loads created by your boat lift. The downside to galvanized steel is the fact that it has a higher electron-potential than stainless steel, making its’ corrosion resistance less effective because it does NOT regenerate when damaged.
Stainless Steel: Stainless steel is carbon steel which is mixed with about 10% chromium to resist oxidation or corrosion. The chromium in the steel forms a thin layer of chromium oxide that promotes resistance to corrosion. When exposes to oxygen the protective coating WILL regenerate. The anti-corrosion of the chromium simply oxygen to maintain this property of resistance.
Getting technical now
Galvanized steel boat lift cables, although corrosion resistant, are more prone to wear. The zinc layer can be scratched or cracked through expansion and contraction. This can lead to spot rusting and a decreased life of the steel cable. The scratching occurs when a cable rubs against itself as it winds around the winch drum. Each layer is going at a slightly different speed than the layer below it – thus scratching the zinc coating on the cable.
Even internally the strands in the cable are rotating at a different speed and the zinc will be damaged. This can be frequently seen on the upper areas of a galvanized cable where it enters the winch. It also frequently occurs on the bottom layer of a cable where it is wrapped around the drum on the winch.
Stainless steel boat lift cables, on the other hand, are blended with chromium oxide during manufacturing. This makes its corrosion resistance regenerative in fresh water.
Rusted Boat Lift Cables
You will see lift cable corrosion most commonly in the form of rust.
Galvanized steel cables will corrode over larger areas of its surface while stainless steel cables seldom rust. The addition of chromium to the steel during the production process creates a product that is regenerative and uniform in resistance throughout.
Whereas galvanized steel, with its zinc coating, does not regenerate and when damaged exposes the steel beneath to the elements. The rusted areas are more prone to fraying and breakage too.
In Conclusion … Follow these Maintenance Suggestions for your Boat Lift:
In spring and fall (and at least once during the summer months), put a short blast or two of PENETRATING OIL on the cables wrapped around the winch drum from the top of the winch. Do not soak the cable, you’ll contaminate the water below. DO NOT use any oil except penetrating oil. NEVER USE GREASE (it traps the moisture inside the cable accelerating it’s deterioration).
Inspect cables for frays and rust – Caution – wear leather gloves to prevent injury to your hands. Check near the top of the winch cable as this is the most common area for frays. Replace as needed, if corrosion is present.
Check all cables to make sure they’re aligned properly on the pulleys
With your watercraft on the rack – check for any slack in the cables. All cables should be equal in tension. Contact PWS for adjustment, if needed.
Look for cable corrosion near the winch with the rack fully down (but without slack in the lifting cables.)
If the canopy cover is on, are all the springs or bungee cords secured? Broken hardware should be immediately replaced.
Check bunks and guides to make sure the hardware is secure.
If carpeted, replace torn bunk and guide fabrics to protect your boat hull. Consider replacing carpet with vinyl bunks.
Exterior wheel driven winch? Check the bungee cord to see if it needs replacement. Cracked cords can break at any time so be sure to use the correct cord. Contact PWS for replacements.
Don’t ignore your dock – check the bolts. Are they secure ?
It is our hope that this article will make your decision easier and lend more confidence to your selection. Your boat lift is an investment and as such we want to make certain that we help you make a wise decision.
Remember
Pier & Waterfront Solutions (PWS)specializes in all ShoreMaster docks, lifts and accessories.
Located in the center of Door County at 7325 St Hwy 57, just south of Sturgeon Bay at the intersection of Idlewild Road. Our staff looks forward to serving all of your waterfront needs.
Found this article helpful? Go to “NEWS” on any page of our website for a complete list of articles meant to keep you informed on the latest product information and maintenance issues. Check out our “older entries” also.
The wide variety of articles on dock and boat lifts issues will answer many of your questions. PWS believes that an informed consumer makes better decisions.
Dock bumpers protect your boat and dock from damage. You have a major investment in your boat and dock system. Dock bumpers go a long way to protect that investment. The bumpers come in several styles. The selection of the correct one for you is basically determined by your location.
Rivers and Lakes
Docks installed less than 18″ above the water level will allow the use of horizontal side bumpers. These bumpers will work for you, unless you experience waves over 18″ or have large water depth fluctuations. Horizontal side bumpers are available in several configurations.
Horizontal Side Bumpers
Dock Side Bumper
A side bumper wraps over the top and/or upper part of the dock frame. and are made in 10′ lengths. The sections are cut to accommodate posts and accessories. The side bumper may be cut to conform to the size of the deck panels for ease of winter removal. The bumper protects the hull of the boat from hitting the top and side of the dock. Normally, it is not applied to the bottom of the dock frame..
Corner Bumpers
Dock Corner Bumper
The corner bumpers are made from the same material as the side bumpers. It is factory formed into a right angle to protect the boat hull from two directions at the corner of a dock. Mounted at the end of the dock, they measure approximately 12” in each direction.
Dock Corner Wheel
An alternative is a vinyl wheel which mounts at a corner. This wheel rolls horizontally around the corner to guide and protect the boat hull.
The wheel does take up about 6″-*8″ of deck space in the corner. It will not be effective if you have large waves. You may be under or over the wheel and need a bumper that allows the boat to go up and down.
Large Lakes and the Bay of Green Bay
Vertical Bumpers must be used on larger bodies of water like the Bay of Green Bay and Lake Winnebago.They experience water fluctuations larger than 12″ and wave action exceeding three feet. This is particularly important when the dock is set high to accommodate wave action. This type of bumper will help prevent you boat from going under the dock frame.
Vertical Dock Bumper
Docks set over 24” above the water have a unique problem. If the side of the boat moves under the frame of the dock it will cause severe damage to the boat. A horizontal side bumper can not prevent this type of damage.
3′ high vertical dock bumpers prevent the boat from moving underthe dock frame when in the trough of a wave.
Remember
Pier & Waterfront Solutions (PWS) specializes in all ShoreMaster docks, lifts and accessories.
Located in the center of Door County at 7325 St Hwy 57, just south of Sturgeon Bay at the intersection of Idlewild Road. Our staff looks forward to serving all of your waterfront needs.
Found this article helpful? Go to “NEWS” on any page of our website for a complete list of articles meant to keep you informed on the latest product information and maintenance issues. Check out our “older entries” also.
The wide variety of articles on dock and boat lifts issues will answer many of your questions. PWS believes that an informed consumer makes better decisions.
Check out our Facebook page at “Pier & Waterfront Solutions.”
The proper time to replace a boat lift cable depends on a variety of circumstances:
Corroded & Frayed Cable
How well is it maintained?
How often is it lubricated?
What is used to lubricate the cables?
Is the cable winding properly?
Was the lift sized properly?
Is there any visual damage to the cable?
Are there frayed wires on the cable?
Is it a galvanized cable or stainless steel?
Is there corrosion on the cable?
What is the proper lift cable maintenance?
Lift cable replacement depends on a visual inspection of the lift cables to help determine when to replace them. It’s best to inspect it while it is on dry land in order to check all of the key points. Ideally, the lifting platform (or rack) should be in the lowered position. Of course, make sure the lift cable is not allowed to go slack.
Frayed Lift Cable
Examine the vertical length of the cable for frayed wires especially near the winch. CAUTION – Always wear leather gloves when sliding your hands on the cable. To put it differently, a frayed wire can cause extensive, painful damage to unprotected hands.
The cable is made up of multiple strands of wire and multiple wraps are used to form the overall cable. Excessive fraying or corrosion near the winch is a top signal of damage.
Nothing lasts forever – even boat lift cables
There are two types of cable wear:
Internal cable abrasion- This occurs whenever strands work against each other under load.
External abrasion – This also occurs when the cable bends around the winch drum and rubs against the adjoining cable or drum.
How long a lift cable lasts depends on:
How often it’s used;
What type of cable it is; and
The care it receives.
Every time a boat is raised or lowered over a winch drum there is internal wear on the cable. Each strand of wire in the winding is moving at a slightly different speed. Abrasion of the cable strands is the result. When you loose too many strands you lose a lot of strength.
What should be done?
Steel lift cables require a squirt or two of penetrating oil occasionally to reduce the internal friction on the strands and individual wires in the cable. This is particularly important on galvanized cables. Lubrication helps to preserve the galvanized coating and minimizes abrasion between strands. Grease should NEVER be used, as it traps moisture inside the strands. Do not saturate the cable and only use penetrating oil for best results.
Stainless steel lift cable will also benefit from a few squirts of penetrating oil. This should be done in Spring and again in Fall.
Strong indicators that a boat lift cable needs to be replaced:
Excessive broken strands:
Kinks:
Deformities and
Areas of heavy corrosion.
Corrosion
Rusted Lift Cable
Galvanized cables that break tend to show signs of corrosion or rust. Usually this is located near the winch when the rack is in the lowered position. It also can be at the bottom of the cable where it is secured to the frame. Note: do not allow the main cable to go “slack” when lowering the rack.
A slight discoloration indicates that the protective galvanizing coating has been worn away. Concentrations of heavy rust indicate that the steel cable itself has lost considerable strength and should be replaced immediately.
Assuming the cable is well cared for, how long should it last?
Experts say that, to be safe, galvanized cable should be replaced every two years. All things being equal, stainless cable will last longer, up to twice as long.
A point often overlooked – internal abrasion or rust can be hidden and may not show visible damage on the cable. A boat lift cable like this may sometimes fail without prior warning. An improperly positioned boat, shocks from wave action (when bouncing on the lift rack or jamming the rack against the frame may send your boat into the water.
When in doubt, replace the cable; trying to squeeze another year out of a $75 cable isn’t worth the risk of dropping your boat or personal injury.
Remember
Pier & Waterfront Solutions (PWS) specializes in all ShoreMaster docks, lifts and accessories.
Located in the center of Door County at 7325 St Hwy 57, just south of Sturgeon Bay at the intersection of Idlewild Road. Our staff looks forward to serving all of your waterfront needs.
Found this article helpful? Go to “NEWS” on any page of our website for a complete list of articles meant to keep you informed on the latest product information and maintenance issues. Check out our “older entries” also.
The wide variety of articles on dock and boat lifts issues will answer many of your questions. PWS believes that an informed consumer makes better decisions.
Boat Loading Handrails make it easy and safe to access your boat from your dock. They give stability for the entire family when moving from the dock to the boat. People really appreciate this steady handrail.
Dock Loading Handrails
Have an elderly parent or friend who could use the extra support? This is a great way to provide safe entry and exit from your boat.
Dock Handrails
Dock side handrails can be put on the length of your dock. Put them on one or both sides of your dock for extra security for the elderly and children. They come in various lengths and can be used on all of the Shoremaster Infinity dock systems.
Dock Handrail
Found this article helpful? Go to “NEWS” on any page of our website for a complete list of articles meant to keep you informed on the latest product information and maintenance issues. Check out our “older entries” also.
The wide variety of articles on dock and boat lifts issues will answer many of your questions. PWS believes that an informed consumer makes better decisions.
Infinity Dock Series- Don’t be afraid of Change – It’s Fun!
Everyone likes a little change in their life. When driving from point A to point B, don’t be afraid to change your route. Take a different road to see some different scenery. Stop by a landmark on the side of the road to learn something new. Stop at a roadside stand and get fresh vegetables OR change your dock layout with the Infinity Dock Series from ShoreMaster. It’s fun!!
A straight dock is simple and functional – but it can be boring also. Use your imagination.Why should your dock be any different? When you have the RS 4 Infinity Series you don’t need to be afraid of change. It is named “Infinity Series” because of the infinite number of configurations you can have and the flexibility it provides. Your only limitation is what you can dream up. It’s all possible with the Infinity Series from ShoreMaster. Use your imagination.
When you own a lake home, friends and family LOVE to come to visit. If given the opportunity, people will congregate on the dock because it is a focal point of your place.
NEW JET SKI?
Purchased a new Jet Ski or boat? Maybe its time to change your dock configuration to accommodate the new equipment. With the RS 4 Infinity series from ShoreMaster you can purchase some 45° and 90° angled dock sections and completely redesign the layout.
LOW WATER?
Water low this year? Change the configuration again and move the extra sections to the end of the dock to get the extra length you need.
WHAT MAKES THE INFINITY DOCK SERIES SO UNIQUE?
The 45° and 90° angles really make the dock look sharp with their rounded corners. These are not pricey “custom made” sections that cost a fortune to own – they are standard pieces – and they’re waiting for you to configure them the way you want.
The platform at the end acts as a great relaxation area. The dock furniture makes you feel like you’re sitting out on water. You can have vertical dock bumpers at the end for when friends want to come over to visit.
FLEXIBILITY
The RS 4 dock will provide you with the flexibility to add-on as needed. You are not limited to one configuration. By redesigning the layout, you truly can come up with many different designs to suit your needs and varying lake conditions each summer. Start simple, and then over the course of several seasons you can add-on piece by piece. The RS 4 dock gives you the flexibility to do that.
If you get the itch, it’s fun knowing that you are only limited by your own creativity. CREATE AWAY!!
Note – All of the RS 4 docks shown here are year-to-year changes of the SAME dock.
Found this article helpful? Call Jerryat 920-493-4404 or Email Jerry@wisconsinpws.comfor more information. Also go to “NEWS” on any page of our website for a complete list of articles meant to keep you informed on the latest product information and maintenance issues.
Purchased a new Jet Ski or boat? Maybe its time to change your dock configuration to accommodate the new equipment. With the RS 4 Infinity series from ShoreMaster you can purchase some 45° and 90° angled dock sections and completely redesign the layout.
